Process of making shoes



J. A. KELLY -1,714,271

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES May 21, 1929.

Original F'led Sept. 9, 1920 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 mmvm/r 7 9r ATTORNEY May21, 1929. J. A; KELLY PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed sept. 9.1920 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 A TTOR/VEY Patented May 21,1929, 1,714,271 UNITEDSTATES PATENT OFFICE;

JOHN A. KELLY, or nnooxnvm'nnw YORK.

rnocnss or MAKING snoEs.

Application filed September 9, 1920, Serial No. 409,225. Renewed May 3,1924.

This invention is a process of making shoes shank portion of the shoeproduced by my wherein provision is made of increased seinvention. ycurity of attachment between the upper and Figure 8 is a verticallongitudinal section the outsole, as a result of which the seam throughthe upper and outsole after attach- 6 will not pull away from the upper.ment, showing the steps of pulling out the According to this invention,the procedur chain stitch to'detach the stay from the teminvolves thestep of positioning a stay i porary insole and the dislodgment of suchsuch relation to a last that the margin of temporary insole from itsposition within an upper when lasted will overlap the stay, the upper. Ic5 thereafter attaching the margin of the upper Figure 9 is a crosssection through another to the stay as by stitching, cementing or formof the stay, in which form said stay is stapling, then trimming themargin of the composed of two lapping pieces of material upper, placingan outsole upon the upper as to one of which the upper .is stapled,whereas usual, and finally stitching the outsole to the other pieceoverlaps the stapled edge of 1 the upper .and the stay so that thestitches the first piece and the margin of the upper pass through thestay as well as through the so that the line of staples is covered by aupper and the outsole. 7 layer of material in order to afford a smooth IIn a preferred mode of procedure, the stay surface within the shoe andthus prevent the;

is connected or attached to a temporary instaples from hurting the footwhen the shoe 20 sole by any one of several known means of is worn.

attachment commonly used in the art of 'The temporary insole A iscomposed of a making shoes, such as by cementing, stapling suitableflexible material, such as leather, or by achain stitch seam, thusproviding for fabric, etc., its shape and dimensions 0011- the readydisengagement between the said forming approximately to the last. Tothis 25 temporary insole and the stay when the ininsole is detachablyattached a stay B console is to be dislodged or withdrawn from stitutingan essential feature of the inventhe shoe. Said stay is'composed' of anymation, said stay being composed of leather, terial suitable for thepurpose, such as fabric or other material suitable for the pur leatheror fabric, and it consists of one or pose. The stay isathin flat pieceof material 30 more narrow flat pieces of material out or conforming tothe marginal contour of the shaped to follow the outline of the last atinsole,,.upon which the stay is positioned for the forepart thereof. Ione edge- .,thereof to extend beyond the edge Other features andadvantages of the inof said temporary insole. Said stay is atventionwill appear from the following detached to the insole by a temporaryfastening, scription taken in connection with'the drawthe same beingshown as a chain stitch b, ings, whereinalthough the stay may becemented, pasted, Figure 1 is a plan view of a temporary in-' stapledorotherwise attached so as to leave. sole with the stay attached theretoin a suitits edges free. As shown the seam 6- passesable manner as by-achain stitch. through the middle portion of thestay B 10 Figure 2 is aplan view of the upper lasted and the insole near the edge of thelatter, over a temporary insole and a permanent both edges of the stayBbeing unattached shank piece, said upper being sta led to the and free.r stay positioned beneath the laste upper. C is a permanent shank piece,the same Figure 3 is a plan view of the parts shown being providedwithin the edges thereof with V 45 in Figure 2 after trimming the marginof a channel 0 producing a lip c.

the upper., In carrying out the invention, the tem- Figures 4t and 5 arevertical cross sectional porary insole is imposed upon a suitable lastviews on the lines 4-4 and 5-5 respectively D upon which said insolefisretained temof Figure 3. pararily by the usual lasting tacks d, theFigure 6 is a cross section through the shoe shank piece C being also.imposed upon said I after stitching the outsole to the upper and lastfor the fore end ofthe shank to meet the stay, the last having beenpreviously reor lap the rear end of the'ttemporary insole, moved, saidview showing the operation of see Figure 3. p pulling out the chainstitch preliminarily to The upper 'D'1s 'now lasted in the usual 5-51the step of dislodging the temporary insole. manner, the marginalportion d beingdrawn Figure a section through the over the last so as tohave a'substantial porg tion of said margin d extend over the temporaryinsole and the sta B, the lasted upper being held by lasting tacks d seeFigure 2.

When using a temporary insole intended to be dislodged from the shoe inthe process of completing it, I use suitable tacks d in the operation oftemporarily fastening the upper so as to retain the parts in the desiredrelation.

Having lasted the upper with respect to the temporary insole A and thepermanent shank piece C, I next proceed to fasten said upper to the stayB and the shank piece C, for which purpose it is desirable to employ aline of staples E, shown in Figures 2 and 3, or by stitching orcementing, Along the shank piece the staples pass through the upper andthe lip a, see Figures 5 and 7, but along the temporary insole adjacentthe margin thereof, the staples do not enter or pass through embodies ananvil adapted to be inserted be-.

low the infolded upper margin and below one edge portion of the stay forthe purpose of clenching the staples, then the operator should somanipulate the upper with respect to the tacks d that the upper and thestay are stapled in the intervals between the tacks, and if required toapply the staples close together for the full length of the upper marginas indicated in Figure 2, then and in that event the tacks d should betemporarily withdrawn and reinserted as and when necessary. In anyevent, the attachment of the upper by stapling to the stay can beperformed in a manner sufiicient to retain the upper in the requiredrelation to the stay and the insole.

The upper having been 'stapledor otherwise secured to the shank pieceand to the stay, the upper is trimmed by cutting away the excess orsurplus material shown in Figure 2,

the line of the trim or out being intermediate 4 the series of lastingtacks (2Z and the series of staples E 'so that the upper is trimmedclose to the row of staples E so as to present a smooth appearance, andsuch trimming operation being performed advantageously while the wholesurface is exposed to' ready access as shown in Figure 2, so that whentrimmed the upper presents the smooth and trim ap e pearance of Figure3. At this stage, it may desirable to pull out the lasting tacks d andto remove the trimmed upper margin from p the insole so as to makeprovision for the application and attachment of the outsole; but in somecircumstances I may use short tacks d and allow the trimmed upper marginto remain attached to the insole during the attachment of the outsole,whereby the tacks d and the trimmed upper margin may be withdrawn withthe insole when the latter is dislodged from the shoe, it being apparentthat when the last is removed and the outsole is and the last havingbeen removed, said outsole is attached by stitching the same to theupper and to the stay, the seam f passing through said stay, the upperand the outsole, along the forepart of the upper, see Figure 6, and saidseam f passing through the shank piece C, the upper and the shankportion of the outsole, see Figure 7 It will be seen that at theforepart of the shoe to be produced the upper and the outsole arefastened in a permanent manner to the stay B by the seam f, and thatthis stay B is temporarily held on the temporary insole A by a chainstitch b or its equivalent. It is now desirable to dislodge thetemporary insole, for which purpose it becomes necessary to pullout thethread of scam I) in order. to

detach the temporary insole A from the permanently attached stay B, theoperation of so pulling out the thread of seam 12 being indicated inFigures 6, and 8, after which the temporary insole A is gripped andpulled out of the upper, at which time the trimmed upper margin and thelasting tacks 03 may be also be removed from the upper by the operationof dislodging the temporary insole.

As indicated in Figures 6 and 8, the outsole F is provided in one facethereof with an undercut or channel 9 in which lies the lasted andtrimmed margin of the upper and the narrow stay so that the innersurface of the resulting shoe remains in a smooth condition after thedislodgment of the temporary insole. .In this connection it may bestated that 1 111 channeling the outsole to produce the channel orundercut g, I may so conduct the channeling operation by the aid ofsuitable. tools, machinery, or other appliances, that the cut outportion or excised material constitutes the stay B, the same beingutilized in the process of producing the shoe.

The stay B is an important feature of my i invention, the stay affordingmeans for staf pling the upper without attachingsaid upper a to thetemporary insole during the operations from the upper exposes the stay Bon the inner face of the outsole and exposes also the row of staples bywhich the inner margin of the stay is attached to the up er. It may beand sometimes is desirable o-conceal and protect the staples fromcontact with the wearers foot, and in this-contingency I may employ astay composed oftwo pieces of material B B indicated in Figure 9. Itwill be understood that the double thickness (or two layer) stay B, B,of Figure 9 is prepared prior to assemblage with and attachment to thetemporary insole, the two layers B, B, being in lappin relation one tothe other and with flush e ges'. Said double thickness stay, ortwolayer' stay, is assembled with the temporary insole A in theidentical manner-as the single thickness sta of Figures v1, 2, 3 and 4,i. e., the multip e layer stay B, B,-is imposed upon the temporaryinsole for one edge of the multiple layer stay to extend beyond theedgeof the temporary insole, in the same way as the single thick- 1 nessstay B of Figure lfand thereafter the multiple layer stay B, B, isattached to the temporary insole by a seam b or its equivalent, saidseam b, as shown in Figure 1, passing through the two layers B, B, ofthe mult-iple layer stay intermediate the edges thereof, and said seam12 passing also through the temporary insole. The scam I) thus opcratesto fasten the middle part of the mult1ple layer stay B, B, of Figure 9,to the temporary insole A of Figure l in the same manner as the singlelayer stay of Figures 2,

' 3 and 4 is attached to the inso such middle stitching b operatingtofasten the multiple layer stay to the insole in a way to leave the edgesof the two layers B, B, free and unattached. k

When lasting the upper, the temporary insole with the multiple layerstayis im osed on a lastand tacked thereto as describe and the upper islasted for the marginal part of the up er to be .drawn around the edgesand over t e double layer stay. To fasten the upper to the stay, it ispreferred to staple said upper to one layer only of the multiple layerstay, and in this operation the anvil of a stapling machine ispositioned, by the proper manipulation of the shoe in the hands of askilled laster, to passbetween the two layers B, B,- of the stay,whereby the layer B is stapled to the upper, and hence the staples donot passthrough the part B of said stay. After lasting, the out-sole issewed to the upper and the two part stay, the seam f passing through theoutsole, the upper and the two parts B of the stay, see Figure 9.

"scribed, the two part stay remains attached to the upper and theoutsole, constituting a permanent part of the shoe, one layer of saidstay being stapled to the upper and the other layer of the stay coveringthe row of staples so as to protect the wearers foot from possible injurby the staples.

From the foregoing descript1on taken in connection with the drawings itwill be noted that in my invention I provide a two part insole, whereofthe stay B of Figures 1, 2,

3, 4, 6 and 8 constitutes a marginal insole part, and the layer A,termed herein the temporary insole, of said Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 and 8constitutes the other insole part, the two said parts AB being preparedas a step in the process-prior to the assemblage of the components ofthe shoe. These two parts AB of my insole are in separable relation oneto the other, and in the procedure as herein disclosed, the marginalinsole part B is united with the upper and the outsole so that said partB becomes a unitary part of the resulting shoe,whereas the other partAherein 00 designated the temporary insole) is dis odged by pulling itout of the upper at a certain stages in the disclosed. A

The article resulting from the making of shoes in accordance with myprocess herein disclosed is not claimed in this application, saidarticle constituting the subject matter of 12y Patent No. 1,593,264,patented July 20, 192

Havin thus fully described the invention, what I c aim as new and desireto secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the art of making shoes, the process procedure, all as hereinbefore which consists in attaching a stay to a temporary-insole, imposingsaid attached stay and insole upon a last, lasting an upper into lappingrelation to said stay, fastening the upper to the stay, said fasteningbetween stay and upper being free. from the insole, trimming the upper,and dislodging said insole from the upper.

2. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assemblinga narrow stay ,ina desired relation to 'a last, lasting an 5 upper intolapping relation to the stay, temporarily fastening the upper to thelast' by lasting tacks, stapling the stay and the upper together on aline adjacent the inner .edge ofthe stay, removing excess @terial bytrim-' 0 ming the pper in a line intermediate the lasting tac s and thestaples-uniting the stay theupp'er and the stay. a 3. In the art ofmaking shoes, the

and the .upper, and attaching an outsole to process which cohsistsinattaching astay to the mar passes through theupper and the stay,and-re; moving the insole from the upper, whereby the stay remainsattached to the upper and to the outsole.

4. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching astay to the mar ginal portion of a temporary insolefimposing said insolewith the attached stay upon a ast, lasting an upper, fastening the stayto the upper adjacent'the free marginal portion of said upper, trimmingthe free margin of the upper along a line adjacent the attachment of thestay to said upper, sewing an outsole to the upper by a seam whichpasses through the stay but is free from the insole, and dislodging theinsole from the upper,

leaving the stay attached to the upper and the outsole.

5. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching arelatively narrow stay to the marginal portion of a temporary insole,the edge portions of said stay being unattached and free,'imposing saidinsole with the attached stay upon a last, last- ,ing an upper,fastening the stay along its free mner margin to the upper adjacent thefree edge of said upper, trimming the upper along a line adjacent theattachment of said stay to said upper, stitching an outsole by a seamwhich passes through the upper and the stay, and dislodging the insolefrom said'upper.

6. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching arelatively narrow stay to a temporary insole, lasting an upper andattaching the margin thereof to said insole, attaching the upper to thestay independently of the attaching of the upper to the insole, imposingan'outsole on the upper, attaching the outsole and the upper to the stayseparately from the'aforesaid attachment of the upper and stay, andremoving the insole from the upper.

7. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attaching astay to a temporary insole, lasting an upper, fastening the upper tosaid stay, imposing'an outsole upon the upper, fastening the outsole andthe upper to said stay ind'ependentlyof the aforesaid attaehment of theupper and stay, and, removing the insole from the upper.

8. In the art of making shoes, the. process which consists in aattaching a stay to a tem porary insole, lasting an upper, attachingsaid upper and stay by a permanent line of fastenmgs, imposing anoutsole upon the upper, at-' ta cliing said outsole and the upper to'thestay by a second line of permanent fastenings extending substantiallyparallel to the first named line of fastenings, and removing the insolefrom the upper while allowing the stay to remain attached to the upperand the out sole. is J 9. In the art of making shoes, the process whichconsists in assembling a relatively narrow stay to themarginal portionof a temsembling an outsole relatively to the upper;

fastening the outsole to the upper and to the stay, and dislodging theinsole from the upper, thereby leaving the stay attached to t e upperand to the outsole by two lines of fastenings.

10. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assemblinga relatively narrow stay to the marginal portion of a temporary insole,temporarily attaching the stay "to the insole by a chain stitch seam soas to leave free an inner marginal portion of the stay, imposingthe'insole with the. attached stay on a last, lasting an upper, staplingthe free edge of the stay to the upper along a line adjacent the freemarginal portion of said upper, trimming the upper, assembling anoutsole relatively to the upper, stitching the outsole by a seam whichpasses through the upper and the stay, and dislodging the insole fromthe upper:

11. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in assemblinga plurality of layers of relatively narrow stay material with respect tothe marginal portion of a temposo i rary insole, fastening said layersof stay material to said insole, imposing said insole with the attachedstay upon a last, lasting an upper, attaching one layer of the staymaterial to the upper, stitching anoutsole by a seamwhich passes throughthe upper and both layers of stay material, and dislodging the insolefrom the upper, leaving both'layers ofstay material attached to theupper and outsole and with one layer of said stay material covering theline of fastening by which the upper is fastened to the stay materialinde pendently of the seam.

12. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in attachinga stay of relatively narrow material to a temporary insole, as semblingsaid insole with the attached stay and with a shank piece in a desiredrelation to a last, lasting an upper, attaching said up-' per'to, thestay and the shank piece bya line I of fastenings extending through theupper and the stay and also extending through the upper and a, lipprovided at the shank piece, stitching an outsole to the upper, theshank piece and the stay, and dislodging the insole from the upper,leaving the stay and the shlank piece attached to the upper and theoutso e. *1

' 13. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists inattaching a stay of relative- "ly narrow material to a temporary insole,providing a shank piece with a channel and a'lip, assembling the insoleand the shank piece in a desired relation to a last, lasting an upper,stapling the upper to the stay and the lip of the shank piece so as toattach said upper independently of said insole, sewing an outsole to theupper, the stay and the shank A piece, and dislodging the insole fromits position within the upper.

14. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists inchannelingan outsole to excise therefrom a narrow strip of material adapted toserve as a stay, temporarily attaching said stay to a temporary insolealong the marginal portion thereof, imposing said insole with theattached stay upon a last, lasting an upper, fastening the upper to thestay adjacenta marginal portion of said upper, assembling the channeledoutsole relatively to the upper, attaching the outsole to the upper by aseam which passes through said stay, and dislodging the temporary insolefrom said upper.

15. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in providinga two-part insole,

one part of which 1s a marginal part separable from the other part ofsaid insole, imposing said two-part insole upon a last, lasting an upperinto lapping relation to the marginal part of said insole, uniting theupper to said marginal part of the insole whereby the said marginal partis unitary with the resulting shoe, and dislodging the other part ofsaid insole from the upper.

16. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in providinga two-part insole the parts of which are separable one from the otherand one of which parts is in marginal relation to the other part,imposing said two-part insole upon a last, lasting an upper into lappingrelation to the marginal part of the insole, fastening the marginal partof the upper to the marginal insole part whereby said marginal insolepart is unitary with the resulting shoe, and dislodging the other partof said insole from the upper.

In testimony whereof I have signed 'my name hereto this 2nd day ofSeptember, 1920.

I JOHN A. KELLY..

